City Lights Booksellers & Publishers

At the corner of Columbus Avenue and Broadway, City Lights is at once a bookstore, a publisher and a living piece of San Francisco’s intellectual history. Lawrence Ferlinghetti and Peter D. Martin founded it in 1953 as one of the first US bookshops devoted exclusively to paperbacks. The publishing house followed two years later; in 1956 it released Allen Ginsberg’s Howl and Other Poems, whose defence in an obscenity trial made free expression part of the store’s story. The city designated the building a municipal landmark in 2001.

A visit across its three floors moves from poetry and fiction to translations, politics, history and books from small presses. You do not need to buy anything to understand why readers still come: visitors praise the thoughtful selection, themed shelves and relaxed browsing atmosphere; some note that it gets crowded, especially at weekends. The shop is open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. and hosts readings and discussions; many events are free, with limited seating, so check the calendar before planning your visit.

The address is 261 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94133; the phone number is (415) 362-8193. Muni routes 30 and 45 stop a few blocks away, while Montgomery BART station is about a ten-block walk on level ground, according to the bookshop. Pair the visit with Jack Kerouac Alley, Vesuvio Café and Washington Square, all a short walk away. City Lights matters for both the books it sells and its publishing history, making it especially rewarding for anyone who wants to read North Beach beyond its cafés and Italianate façades.