Skadarlija is a street to walk slowly before sitting down: cobblestones, old façades and musicians carrying conversation from one table to the next. Belgrade’s city government describes it as the city’s bohemian street and singles out two historic kafanas, Tri šešira and Dva Jelena. Both pair Serbian cooking with wine and live music on some evenings; choose with the right expectations, because the atmosphere is part of the cost and this is not the same as a quiet neighbourhood meal.
Tri šešira, at Skadarska 29, dates its opening to 1864 and says it took its name from a former hat workshop. Its current menu includes meze, cheeses, lamb cooked in a clay pot over embers and other Serbian dishes. Customers often appreciate the music, historic dining room and food for sharing; some reviews raise concerns about extras or service at peak times. The website publishes its menu and allows reservations, useful for groups hoping to sit near the stage.
Dva Jelena, at number 32, traces its history to 1832 and serves grilled meats, dishes cooked under a sač, local cheeses and cured meats. Its rooms and terraces offer more space, while tambura music can turn dinner into a longer evening. Reviews are mixed: many mention the atmosphere and tradition, while others describe uneven doneness, service pace and extra charges. Reading the menu and asking about music before booking helps set expectations.
The difference is not which place represents “authentic Serbia”, but what kind of dinner the traveller wants. Tri šešira has a highly visible history and an official menu that is easy to check; Dva Jelena combines a long tradition with a larger dining room and broad selection. Both are a short walk from Trg Republike, and reservations are recommended when music or groups are expected. If you want to talk without competing with the band, choose an early time and ask whether there will be a performance during dinner.
Read the profiles of Tri šešira and Dva Jelena before booking.
Tri šešira stands out for its history and published menu; Dva Jelena offers more space and a long Serbian dining tradition. Book either and confirm whether live music is scheduled.
Restaurants to compare
These restaurants match the question. Check menus, prices and recent reviews before visiting.
Skadarska Street carries a past of cafés, artists and nightlife that made it Belgrade’s bohemian quarter. Tri šešira occupies number 29 and dates itself as a restaurant to 1864; its name, “Three Hats”, comes from the craft workshop that previously operated in the building. Today, the scene brings to
Meze, lamb roasted under a sač, Serbian dishes and live tambura music
On the same street, Dva Jelena is at number 32 and dates itself as a restaurant to 1832. Its dining rooms, terraces and tambura music place it in the kafana tradition: a place to sit for a while, order dishes for the table and let the evening run on. Belgrade’s tourism office lists Dva Jelena among
Grilled meats, dishes cooked under a sač, local cheeses and old-town music
Sources & references
Sources for the information and reporting discussed in this guide.
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Official website of Tri šešira ↗
Primary source
City of Belgrade · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Official website of Tri šešira ↗
Primary source
Tri šešira · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Official website of Tri šešira ↗
Primary source
Restaurant Guru · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Official website of Dva Jelena ↗
Primary source
City of Belgrade · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Official website of Dva Jelena ↗
Primary source
Dva Jelena · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Official website of Dva Jelena ↗
Primary source
Restaurant Guru · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Official website ↗
Primary source
City of Belgrade · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Official website ↗
Primary source
Tri šešira · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Official website ↗
Primary source
Dva Jelena · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Official website ↗
Primary source
Restaurant Guru · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Official website ↗
Primary source
Restaurant Guru · Accessed October 11, 2026
Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.
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Review score and review count ↗
Secondary source
Restaurant Guru · Accessed October 11, 2026
Google data for Tri šešira, Skadarska 29: 4.5/5 and 14,017 reviews, checked 11/10/2026.
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Google rating and review count ↗
Secondary source
Restaurant Guru · Accessed October 11, 2026
Google data for the Skadarska 32 venue: 4.3/5 and 9,934 reviews, checked 11/10/2026.