Glacis Beisl

Glacis Beisl is entered from Breite Gasse, yet its dining room feels tucked away from the traffic around MuseumsQuartier. The walnut-shaded garden and modern interior give the Viennese beisl a setting quite different from the customary dark-wood tavern. The tourist board places it on a surviving stretch of the old city walls and recommends it for its food and setting, not merely its proximity to museums.

The standard menu includes organic-beef goulash with a Kaiser roll, krautfleckerl of cabbage and pasta, tafelspitz with chive and apple-horseradish sauces, and two schnitzels worth distinguishing: Lower Austrian pork and Austrian veal. Blunzn and crackling-filled grammelknödel offer a deeper look into the city's everyday repertoire. Austrian wines have their own list; the kitchen does not need an enormous menu to make its point.

On the menu consulted September 23, krautfleckerl cost EUR 13.20, goulash EUR 15.80 and pork schnitzel EUR 24.60; cover was EUR 3.50 per person. Those are dishes with their listed sides, not meals including drinks. The lunchtime menus mentioned by the tourist board may be particularly interesting, although no current price for them was verified.