Khao Soi Mae Sai

Khao Soi Mae Sai’s small Ratchaphruek shop in Chang Phueak focuses on one of northern Thailand’s characteristic meals. Khao soi combines noodles, coconut curry broth and a topping of crispy noodles: contrasting textures matter as much as the seasoning.

Mae Sai’s curry has a rich, slightly spicy character, with a choice of meats. Chicken provides an introduction to the speciality. Tasting the broth first and then mixing the noodles offers a way to notice each spoonful changing, without ordering a tableful of dishes.

The format suits a daytime meal alone or as a couple before continuing around Chiang Mai. Payment is in cash. Its culinary appeal is setting aside a stop for this bowl and a regional style of cooking, rather than turning lunch into a lengthy tasting menu.