Maskay guide

Where can you hear traditional music in a Dublin pub: Merrion Row or Smithfield?

Two pubs with live sessions and different settings; music times, food, reservations and listening etiquette.

A Dublin pub can be a place for conversation, a neighbourhood bar and a music room at once. But music advertised as “Irish” does not always take the form of a traditional session: sometimes there is a stage and a fixed set; elsewhere, players gather around a table and take turns. Anyone who wants to listen rather than tick a tourist box needs to know the schedule and the house rules. O’Donoghue’s on Merrion Row and The Cobblestone in Smithfield show two ways of living that tradition.

Merrion Row and the memory of The Dubliners

O’Donoghue’s Merrion Row retains its 15 Merrion Row address, associated with The Dubliners and the folk revival of the 1960s. Its website schedules music every night: from eight Monday to Thursday, earlier on Friday and Saturday, and throughout Sunday. The bar opening in the morning does not mean musicians begin then. Another pub named O’Donoghue’s stands on Suffolk Street; enter the full Merrion Row address in your map. Crowds and photographs of earlier performers shape the room, but they do not replace the actual session on the day you visit.

Smithfield and a session heard close up

The Cobblestone stands at 77 King Street North by Smithfield Square. It publishes sessions every day, several in the afternoon. The house explains that a session is a social gathering of musicians, with natural pauses, and asks for quiet when someone plays or sings. It serves no food and takes no table reservations; under-18s must also leave before nine. Those are decisive facts for families and for anyone hoping to eat dinner there. If you want to be near the instruments, arriving as a session begins offers more chance than appearing at the end.

Plan an evening without making the music a backdrop

Merrion Row is on the southern side of the centre near St Stephen’s Green; Smithfield lies northwest of the River Liffey. These are not neighbouring doorways: trying to hear a full session at both on one evening can turn music into a race. Read the official programmes, choose a district to start in and allow time to eat elsewhere when necessary. The Cobblestone asks visitors to leave room for the players and avoid flash; in any pub, resist talking over a solo or song. Visitor accounts praise the music in both places while warning of crowds and limited space.

O’Donoghue’s brings the documented memory of a celebrated musical scene and an evening in the southern centre. The Cobblestone also offers afternoon sessions and clearly explains how to listen, with the practical condition of dining elsewhere. The better choice depends on time, neighbourhood and a willingness to share the room with musicians and neighbours.

Bottom line

Merrion Row brings history and evening sessions; The Cobblestone also schedules afternoon music and serves no food. Check the day’s session.

Verification

Sources & references

Sources for the information and reporting discussed in this guide.

  1. Official website of O’Donoghue’s Merrion Row ↗ Primary source O’Donoghue’s · Accessed October 10, 2026

    Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.

  2. Official website of O’Donoghue’s Merrion Row ↗ Primary source O’Donoghue’s · Accessed October 10, 2026

    Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.

  3. Official website of The Cobblestone ↗ Primary source The Cobblestone · Accessed October 10, 2026

    Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.

  4. Official website ↗ Primary source The Cobblestone · Accessed October 10, 2026

    Primary source for identity, concept, menu, and contact details.

  5. Valoración de O’Donoghue’s Merrion Row ↗ Secondary source Craic Map · Accessed October 10, 2026

    Google 4.6/5 en 6359 reseñas de 15 Merrion Row; consultado 10/10/2026.

  6. Valoración y experiencias de The Cobblestone ↗ Secondary source Restaurant Guru · Accessed October 10, 2026

    Google 4.7/5 en 5839 reseñas de 77 King Street North; consultado 10/10/2026.