Sambongi Shoten

Between the Imperial Palace and the Kamo River, Sambongi Shoten occupies a renovated machiya more than a century old. Nine counter seats and a shared table for ten keep the scale intimate. The former Sambongi entertainment district provides a setting for dinner combined with a walk through this part of Kyoto.

Binchotan charcoal grilling anchors the kitchen. Depending on deliveries, ingredients include wild boar and venison, pasture-raised pork from Shinshu, Kawamata shamo chicken and Kyoto duck. The menu is not confined to one style, drawing on Japanese, French and Chinese influences alongside the grill. Asking about the day's produce is more useful than arriving with a fixed order.

Natural wines and sake selected for warm service play a significant role. It suits diners who prefer exploring several dishes over a glass rather than following a formal set progression. The large table is shared with other guests, worth knowing if you are looking for complete privacy.