Gion Yorozuya

Gion Yorozuya belongs to the neighbourhood's everyday history, not just its image of teahouses and old streets. It began by delivering meals to teahouses and theatres, winning customers among geiko and maiko. Today its small, unpretentious restaurant in Komatsucho offers a way into that less ceremonial side of Gion's food culture.

The defining dish is udon covered with generous amounts of Kujo spring onion, an ingredient closely associated with Kyoto. The appeal lies in tender noodles, dashi and greens working together: an apparently simple bowl that rewards attention to each component. It makes an alternative to a long multi-course meal during a day around Higashiyama.

For a different order, Mari adds pickled plum and Tsunoda includes chicken; both take their names from personalities who favour those combinations. The restaurant also suits solo diners. Queues can form at busy times, so leave some flexibility before the next visit on your itinerary. Payment is cash only.